🗺 Every page — the whole flow
The votes
Open questionsElections — when, where, howVoter turnoutPriorities boardWhat came of itGet involved
The budget
▶ Take the 2-minute tourThe money trailYour tax bill, explainedCities & townsGrants — money we could go getWho gets paidWhat the auditors reportedThe receipt — arithmetic checkedThe documentsHow every number is sourcedQuestions people ask — answered from the dataThe plain-words tour
Public needs
Our waterJails & prisons — from holding to buildingWho’s watching — cameras, plate readers, the rulesWho to call — county and state officesFind help
Dead ends & open questions
The docketThe calendarHow complete is this county?
Research for a better county
Receipts by railsFood sovereigntyGrow-opsThe food flywheelThe two potsFeeding the countyThe growing frontierThe grower’s almanacThe $400K blueprintThe research shelfThe precedents
The wider network
All countiesKindred workWhere we sit in the field
How to trust this
Where we standWhat we will never doHow this is securedThe traffic logOur storyReport a problem

The grower's almanac — year-round food in Arkansas

How to make food come out of the ground twelve months a year in central Arkansas (roughly USDA zone 8a), so a community fridge, hub, and cellar never go empty. Built on University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension planting data. Every date is a regional average — a guide, not a guarantee; always check the current forecast.

Climate baseline (Garland County / Hot Springs): USDA hardiness zone 8a; average last spring frost ~April 3, first fall frost ~October 31 (~211 frost-free days, NWS Little Rock, 1991–2020). Clark County (Arkadelphia) is effectively the same.

The point isn't a summer garden — it's a supply that never stops. That takes three habits most gardens skip: plant a fall garden in the heat of August, grow crops bred to store, and keep the cold-hardy greens going through winter under cover.

The year, month by month

MonthPlant & startHarvestStore & do
JanGarlic (last call, by mid-Jan); start onion seedKale, collards, spinach, carrots — under coverSoil-test; order seed; build beds with compost
FebIrish potatoes (mid-Feb); onion sets; peas, spinach, lettuce, radish, carrots, beets, kale; broccoli/cabbage startsOverwintered greensRow cover for early sowings
MarMore cool-season; start tomatoes & peppers indoorsEarly greens, radish, spinachHarden off transplants
AprAfter ~Apr 3 frost: beans, sweet corn, tomatoes; sweet-potato slips (Apr 20+)Spring greens, lettuce, radish, green onionsMulch beds; trellises
MayOkra, peppers, eggplant, cucumbers, squash, melons, lima beansPeas, lettuce, strawberries, spring onionsSuccession-sow beans & corn
JunSouthern peas; successions of beans, squash, cornSquash, cucumbers, dry onions, early tomatoes, new potatoesKeep water steady
JulFall starts: tomatoes (Jul 1–15), corn, southern peas, summer squash; fall potatoes (Jul 15+)Garlic, tomatoes, peppers, squash, beans, melonsCure garlic
AugThe fall garden (Aug 1–Sep 15): carrots, collards, broccoli/cabbage/cauliflower, beets, chard, turnips, mustard; kale (20th+), spinach (25th+), lettuceSummer peakStart fall transplants
SepFinish fall greens & roots (through 15th); last spinach, lettuce, radishSummer tail + first fall greensSet low tunnels / row cover
OctGarlic (start); overwintering onionsBefore frost: winter squash, sweet potatoes; fall greens rampingCure sweet potatoes & squash
NovGarlic (still fine); overwinter onionsFall peak: kale, collards, spinach, carrots, beets, broccoli, cabbageOnions & potatoes into the cellar; cover winter beds
DecGarlic (still fine)Cold-hardy greens & roots under cover — sweeter after frostPlan next year; turn compost

Winter is the whole game

Most gardens quit in October; the ones that feed a community don't. In zone 8a, kale, collards, spinach, mustard, and turnip greens keep producing through winter, garlic and overwintered onions hold in the ground until summer, and carrots and beets keep under mulch. A floating row cover buys about 2°F of protection (heavier fabric 6°F+); a low tunnel or cold frame buys more.

The season-extension move that's capital, not labor — a hoop house. A high tunnel turns three seasons into four, and the USDA NRCS Seasonal High Tunnel cost-share helps pay for the structure (a grant that buys ten years of growing — see the engine). Rules: pre-manufactured kit, ≤30 ft wide, ≥6 ft peak, ≤2,160 sq ft, grown in native soil; you front the cost and get reimbursed. Get the current Arkansas rate from your local NRCS office.

The cellar crops — grown to store

CropCureStore atKeeps
Sweet potatoes85°F, 90% humidity, 7–10 days55–60°F, 85–90% humidity6–8 months
Irish potatoes60°F, a few days, dark38–42°F, ~90% humidity6–8 months
Winter squash & pumpkinsharvest before hard frost55–60°F, dry2–6 months
Garlicdry down, airflow72°F+, dry (not cold)~8 months
Onionsdry down32°F, 65–70% humidity6–7 months
Dry beansdry fully; freeze 48h to kill weevilscool, dry, in jars1 year+

Two habits worth the ink: don't store onions and potatoes together (each speeds the other's spoiling), and onions sprout in a fridge — keep them cold-cold or cool-dry, not in between.

Free dirt, free help


Planting windows: UA Extension Home Gardening Series (FSA-6001) — central-Arkansas averages. Frost dates: NWS Little Rock. Storage: UAEX fact sheets. Hoop house: USDA NRCS. Every date is an average — check the current forecast.